Sommelier at Maison Pic, a 3 star Michelin restaurant based in Valence (France), Denis Bertrand is a great expert on Rhone Valley wines. He has been tasting and selecting those wines for the restaurant over the last 30 years and is now giving us some hints on 2009 vintage and sharing some of his greatest experiences in his life.
What is your view on the 2009 vintage in Rhone Valley?
This is an exceptional vintage. Immediately when we tasted grape juices at the beginning of the harvest, we understood with winemakers that 2009 was a great vintage. This year brought quality and quantity, which is an excellent news for producers. From Vienne to Avignon, the season was so exceptional that we may compare this year to some of the greatest such as 1929, 1949 or even 1978. During my recent tastings, I was impressed by the level of quality showed by Northern Rhone Valley wines such as Côte Rotie, Saint Joseph, Hermitage and Cornas. Reds seem to have a greater potential than whites where a lack of acidity may be sometimes a negative aspect depending on producers.
What are you serving at Maison Pic by the glass?
Of course, it is important for us to help our customers to discover the wines from our beautiful region by the glass. Currently, we are serving a delicious red wine from Christine Vernay : Blonde du Seigneur 2007. This is incredible how red wines from this estate have improved over the last 10 years. This wine, in an excellent vintage, shows fruit, elegance, finesse and a beautiful balance. For a glass of white wine, we move to the southern part of Rhone Valley with a white Chateuneuf du Pape: Chateau La Gardine 2001 is nearly 10 years old and offers maturity notes that we appreciate from our region.
What were your greatest experiences during your career?
Of course, we are lucky enough to taste the best wines that you can find in our region. Every year, we discover some new names, some young winemakers who produce good quality wines. But drinking a wine from a top name in a top vintage is sometimes an experience that you will never forget. A 1978 white Hermitage from Chave is among them like a 1991 Red Hermitage Cathelin from the same estate. I also like old vintages of Cornas from Domaine Clape or some red Châteauneuf du Pape from Avril. Back to the North and in a splendid vintage like 1991, I also remember some Cote Rotie, either from Domaine Jamet or the Mordoree from Chapoutier. Those are great wines which pair magnificiently with black truffles from our region.
(You can reach the writer at clara@vitabella.fr
