(An editorial written by Guillaume Jourdan) US Wine Critic Robert Parker recently posted, on his official Twitter account, some of his thoughts on today’s wine market. While you are reading the 10 points he made (Parker’s thoughts are written in bold), I would suggest to listen to Robin Thicke’s new music in which a famous Cognac brand is promoted: 1. “For wines in excess of $25, it remains sluggish” This concerns the United States of America and it may continue for a while given the state of the world economy. 2. “The proliferation of very good wine values from many places, but primarily, South America,Spain, southern France,southern Italy, eastern Europe (look-out for Bulgaria), southern Australia, South Africa, has been gaining more and more traction” That’s not really new for us. VitaBella’s clients are based all over the world and they make great wines for a long time now. 3. “The power involving the sale and distribution of wine remains in the wine trade, especially the wholesalers who continue to have excessive influence over our legislators” True in the United States of America. 4. “Wines ratings and scores still matter as much as ever, but only from a few select sources as the ocean of numbers, etc… has caused a tone deafness from consumers as well as ratings’ fatigue.” Ratings’ fatigue does exist. Is there any alternative system? 5. “Bordeaux futures, and so-called pre-arrival sales/prices are largely moribund until the next great vintage, and even that seems like a “non-event” given the world economy in 2013.” In the past, Bordeaux futures’ campaigns have seen highs and lows. According to some articles, the current En Primeurs’ campaign seems to be in line with Parker’s thoughts. 6.“The cellaring of wine for long-term enjoyment, aging, appreciation, and speculation, is an endangered species as taste is changing, favoring efficiency, fruity, front-end loaded wines with immediate appeal as well as accessible, easy-going styles.” It is already and will continue to be a luxury in the future to cellar wines for long-term enjoyment. Why? Because few wines are ageworthy indeed (I mean few gain complexity after a long ageing) and few people can afford that luxury. This niche market has existed for a long time and still exists. I am not sure it is an endangered species. It will continue to exist and the rare ageworthy wines will continue to be collectible for some happy few. And those who drink today fruity, front-end loaded wines with immediate appeal, may one day discover the pleasure of old wines and start cellaring… 7. “The jihadist movements of non-sulphured wines, green,under-ripe wines, low alcohol,insipid stuff promoted by the anti-pleasure police & neo-anti-alcohol proponents has run its course as another extreme and useless movement few care about.” His most provocative thought ! This “movement (that) few care about” will continue to be a niche as long as the wines are drinkable and give pleasure to the consumers. As Michel Chapoutier puts it in this article, “The danger of the ayatollah scares me.” 8.“The continued centralization of wine power in the hands of a few is more dangerous now than ever.” Is there any solution? In some countries, the crisis may even accelerate this centralization. 9. “Wine, fine and fragile wine, is still abused in shipping, storage and the distribution centers as the large multi-state enterprises rarely can justify the extra cost of refrigerated warehouses and delivery trucks.” So true… 10.“The younger generations are moving toward craft beers, boutique alcohols, and concluding wine is not worth the learning curve and cost that is required to appreciate it.” Advertising makes the difference. If you are still listening to the music mentionned above, you may have noticed that a Cognac brand appears. Not a wine brand. For sure there are some exceptions and champagne houses are quite good at promoting their brands (with over 150,000 views, Starlion & Grems’ music with Champagne Henri Giraud’ Code Noir, is a successful example) (You can reach the writer at info@vitabella.fr)
Wine Critic Robert Parker asks on Twitter : "What does everyone think about today's wine market?"
