“Could you imagine a guy who came to a nice restaurant with his wife to celebrate life and good time having something else than champagne? Champagne will always be champagne as there is a part of dream behind this word.” he said. “But what people want is to hear a cork pop and that can come from any other sparkling wines at a fraction of the cost.” I said. “I love a great champagne with some ageing and cork pop has nothing to do with the pleasure I have when I drink champagne. Maybe you are right, cork pop is important for many people. But when you invite somebody at home, try to open a sparkling wine and a bottle of champagne at the same time. They make the same pop but you will immediately see in the eyes of your guests that Champagne means a different celebration, a unique moment.” Giampaolo Motta is sitting here at the bar of Hotel Meurice. His iconic Giorgio Primo wine is served in their splendid 3* Michelin restaurant. In fact, the owner of La Massa estate can claim that Giorgio Primo can be found on wine lists of most of the great restaurants in Paris including Pierre Gagnaire, Joel Robuchon, Hotel Crillon or Grand Vefour . All over the world, his wines are placed beside great vintages of Bordeaux first growths. “I have to say that my palate is “Bordeaux formatted”, my sensibility is “Bordeaux”…” Giampaolo said. “I have always been a great fan of Bordeaux wines. When I was 20, I discovered the world of great wines, those that age in an extraordinay way and become unique after 20 years. I remember the taste of a 1959 Mouton Rothschild as well as a 1961 Chateau Latour. This is what I expect from a great wine.” “How do you reach this level of perfection at La Massa?” I asked. “Year after year, vintage after vintage, this is a matter of fixing every single aspect. Everything must be analyzed down to the smallest details. Over our estate of 25 hectares, we have different parcels that we examine through a microcospe: special care for each plant, special care for the grapes on each vine, special care for vinification, special care for maturing and ageing of the wine…I am currently tasting on a “plot by plot” basis to figure out the best blend for Giorgio Primo 2010. This year Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot show a great potential. In fact, there is some magic behind this operation. In 2010, we have a very limited volume but quality is exceptional and the major objective, at this stage, is to translate this extraordinary potential into the most perfect blend. For this vintage, we will have an elegant and well balanced wine with silky tannins. Now is the time for careful consideration to make this blend even more precise and focused. In fact, it is a very classic vintage as my friends from the Medoc would say!” (You can reach the writer at info@vitabella.fr)
“My palate is Bordeaux formatted, my sensibility is Bordeaux” An interview with Giampaolo Motta, La Massa in Tuscany
I recently met up with Giampaolo Motta who shared with me his vision of a great wine. For him, not only the taste is important to define a great wine but also the beauty of the environment, the ageing potential and many other details that make a wine unique. At my arrival, Giampaolo Motta was reading an article about “Sparkling wines, a cheaper alternative to Champagne”.
