Roussillon bashing or not, wine producers were not happy when they read in early February the results of Decanter’s Roussillon tasting. In her “Right to Reply“, Rosemary George MW – one of the expert taking part to this tasting that also included Simon Field MW who buys Roussillon for Berry Bros & Rudd and Simon Taylor – tried to explain: “Roussillon seems particularly upset that we said that the wines were not elegant. I was quoted by Christelle as saying that you do not go to Roussillon for elegance, and that we should have been tasting full-bodied wines that would cheer you up enormously on a winter’s day. And I stand by that.” Michel Chapoutier has decided to send a letter to Decanter which has just been published in the new edition of Decanter, in the “Letters” section. Here is the content of this letter:
“Rosemary George MW’s editorial coverage of the recent Roussillon reds panel tasting (February 2015 issue) expressed disappointment with the wines, and lamented their lack of elegance. As a vigneron coming from the ancestral terroirs of the Rhône Valley, the first time I ventured beyond the Rhône to discover new terroir was in Roussillon. The geological diversity and varied soils I found there particularly impressed me. It is easy in all Mediterranean climates to look for a certain concentration with the help of the sun, and the winemaker must seek to constrain this solar influence to let the soil express itself. In Roussillon, the wines at the time were sunny in style but I was surprised by the subtlety that some estates achieved, erasing the sun’s influence in favour of the terroir. The region’s entry-level wines have been key to its success too. In unfamiliar regions, the grand terroirs will only be understood if they are supported by more approachable wines. Those of Roussillon have real lusciousness, are food-friendly, and are probably the best value-for-money wines in Europe. If we want young Europeans to discover great wines of culture, they need an introduction. This is the beauty of the Roussillon region, which is unique in offering wines of great terroir that are luscious and affordable, together with pockets of legendary wines of excellence. I am glad that Rosemary George MW has the courtesy and elegance to agree to visit Roussillon to taste the region’s wines in more depth. During this visit, I feel confident that she will discover the secret of Roussillon: the dual-offering of high-quality, entry-level wines and pockets of rare excellence.” (Michel Chapoutier)
