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过年好, 年年有余 : Jean Merlaut (Chateau Gruaud Larose) comments on the future of expensive Bordeaux wines in China

22 janvier 2012 No Comment
Wine
We are celebrating the Chinese New Year with Jean Merlaut, owner of Chateau Gruaud Larose, who comments on the current situation of great Bordeaux wines in China.

How do you analyze the Chinese market for Bordeaux wines?

Jean Merlaut: "First of all, I wish a happy new year 过年好 to the chinese people all around the world. I would also add 年年有余 to these wishes, which means a beautiful harvest...When the Chinese market opened, it was initially directed to very cheap wines with poor quality and also to extremely expensive wines as price was perceived as a proof of quality. Very quickly, the chinese consumer has gained excellent skills for tasting, I am often surprised by the accuracy of their palate and their high level of perception for aromas. When I am able to understandand, I am also fascinated by the poetry of the comments. Chinese consumers increasingly choose mid-range wines according to their quality and not anymore for their price or for their reputation in western countries. To get back more specifically to the great wines from Bordeaux, in my own opinion, they have a bright future in China but not at any price. As it happened in many other countries, there will be more and more wine lovers in China who will take things into consideration and select wines whose "En primeurs" prices are affordable. For many years, a community of wine enthusiasts in Asia (Japan, Singapore ...) have acquired our wines "en primeurs" because they love the unique style of Gruaud Larose. It is a long story between them and Gruaud Larose and it will continue with a growing number of fans in China."

Do the second wines have a bright future in this market?

JM: "The second wines, at reasonable prices, also have a bright future. Sarget of Gruaud Larose fits perfectly into this dynamics, with a more rigorous selection conducted since 2007 with our team and especially with Eric Boissenot. I am convinced that this quality will be increasingly sought after by Bordeaux wines' lovers in China as it happened, some decades ago, in mature markets like the United States of America or England."

China...Is it a long-term job?

JM: "Things move forwards slowly. It takes time to make our wine, the homeopathic approach in the Château Gruaud Larose's vineyards also requests time to bring a unique and profound change in the wine itself... It will be the same for new markets such as China. We must be there to explain our history and our wines, come back to meet new sommeliers and wine enthusiasts to talk about Gruaud Larose. This can not be done over two or three years, it is a real long-term job. And we are fortunate enough to have a long-term vision at Gruaud Larose made possible by the extraordinary ageing potential of our wines!"

(Send your comments to info@vitabella.fr)

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