Vitabella Wine

The Mardi Gras Edition of VitaBella Wine Daily Gossip is out…Every day, more international news from Wine magazine, Wine website and Wine review!

Vitabella — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 10:44:34 +0000

Edition February 21, 2011

Every day, more international news about Wine ! Today The Perrin family , Jin Shan Zhang buys chateau for 'Chinese-French cultural exchange' , New winemaker at Craggy Range and much more.

Vitabella Wine Daily Gossip
“Everyday let's know more about Wine, Luxury, Lifestyle and Marketing !”

Wine website, Wine magazine...What’s Hot Today on Wine Blogs?
“Discover the latest news on Wine Blogs”

葡萄酒，香槟，维塔贝拉新闻

What Wine to share with Friends Today ?
“Discover a Wine Experience Everyday”

Interview Michel Chapoutier: Qu’est ce qu’un vin «naturel» et quels principes éthiques devrait respecter un vigneron « nature »?

Vitabella — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 16:43:50 +0000

Il y a quelques semaines, dans une interview donnée à la revue anglaise Decanter (lire ici "Chapoutier pours scorn on natural winemakers"), Michel Chapoutier a été assez critique vis à vis des personnes qui défendent les vins dits « naturels ». Il a ainsi ajouté au débat sur les vins "naturels" en dénonçant des vignerons qui font des vins avec des défauts. Aujourd'hui Michel Chapoutier donne son avis sur ce qu'est un vin «naturel» et parle des principes éthiques qu'un vigneron "nature" devrait respecter.

Michel Chapoutier, vous avez récemment dit dans Decanter Magazine que les vins "natures" étaient du vinaigre. N'est ce pas un peu dur ?

Michel Chapoutier: "Ce n'est pas une attaque sur le vin en question, c'est plus une attaque sur le mot "nature". Le principe naturel de la fermentation - le sucre du fruit se transforme par les levures en alcool - c'est la fermentation alcoolique. Puis cet alcool, par l'action des bactéries, se transforme en acide : c'est la fermentation acétique. Le but de la fermentation est un principe naturel de décomposition du végétal vers le minéral. La fermentation naturelle donne du vinaigre et un mauvais vinaigre pour les amateurs de vinaigre. C'est pourquoi, si l'on veut parler de vin sans S02, on doit parler de vin sans SO2 mais pas de vin "naturel". Pour être précis le vin "naturel" n'existe pas, et c'est sur ce point que je m'érige."

Mais alors, si nous les appelons vins sans SO2 pour ne pas dire vins naturels, y a-t-il des bons vins sans S02 ?

Michel Chapoutier: "Bien entendu le SO2 est un incontournable pour arrêter le principe naturel de la fermentation à mi chemin au niveau de l'alcool. Par contre, au moment de la pause entre la fermentation alcoolique et la fermentation acétique on peut profiter de ce moment de repos pour essayer de faire un vin sans adjonction de SO2 et certains y arrivent très bien. Par contre, comme cette action est extrêmement instable, les personnes qui se lancent dans ce projet sont systématiquement confrontées à un fort taux d'échec et facilement 50 % des produits peuvent être à défaut."

Et alors? Que pouvons-nous faire de ces vins à défaut ?

Michel Chapoutier: "Là est tout le problème. Faire des vins sans SO2 est une chose intéressante. J'ai encore goûté un très bon Morgon de Lapierre, il y a quelques semaines. Par contre, comment le vigneron va pouvoir financer ce taux de vins à défaut ? Certains les vendent, et là c'est un irrespect du consommateur et c'est contre cela que je m'érige. Certains les vendent en revendiquant, en plus, que c'est un goût de terroir. Là non seulement c'est un irrespect du consommateur mais c'est aussi un irrespect du vin d'AOC si nous avons à faire à un vin d'AOC. Et là je m'érige et je me scandalise. Que l'on fasse un vin sans S02, c'est une chose. Mais le vigneron doit apprendre à jouer le jeu par respect du consommateur et par respect du vin d'AOC, et aussi assumer financièrement les échecs pour pouvoir les détruire."

Est-ce que l'on peut dire que c'est le même problème dans la Biodynamie ?

Michel Chapoutier: "Non, pas du tout. L'agriculture biodynamique et l'agriculture biologique sont des approches basées d'abord sur une agriculture et une agronomie respectueuse de l'environnement. Puis ces derniers temps, pour être cohérents vis-à-vis des consommateurs, nous avons mis en place des cahiers des charges pour que la vinification oenologique soit elle aussi dans une logique bio, aussi bien en biologique qu'en biodynamie. En revanche, dans ces 2 approches sensibles au respect de la nature mais scientifiquement rationnelles, nous avons bien entendu laissé l'utilisation du SO2. Nous avons fortement limité son utilisation mais ces 2 écoles n'ont pas voulu prendre le risque de s'enfermer dans le dogmatisme extrême du zéro SO2."

Comment faire alors cohabiter les vins biologiques, les vins biodynamiques et les vins soit disant "naturels" ?

Michel Chapoutier: "Ici nous touchons un problème philosophique et sociologique. Il faut reconnaître que le monde agricole a fait d'énormes progrès. Même la chimie, par son approche en culture raisonnée, a intégré une approche raisonnée et équitable. Le biologique est en train de se développer. De plus en plus, les personnes qui pratiquent l'agriculture raisonnée passent ensuite au biologique et certains vont plus loin en passant au biodynamique. Il est important, pour la pérennité de la planète, de développer ces modes de culture comme des modes de culture universels. Cela veut dire que l'écologie doit être considérée comme une science universelle. L'écologie ne devrait pas être prise en otage par des parties politiques qui lui retireront sa connotation universelle. Cela veut dire que, comme dans tous les domaines, aucun extrême n'est bon pour la planète. La tendance à vouloir faire du jusqu'au-boutiste dans l'agriculture biologique me fait peur car, derrière cette volonté utopique, il y a aussi le risque de démotiver et de salir en dégradant le travail phénoménal de la pensée biologique et biodynamique. L'agriculture biologique oui, l'agriculture biodynamique oui, le principe des vins naturels avec tous ses risques, je n'adhère pas et cela me fait peur. Pourquoi pas si on a la déontologie de ne pas commercialiser les vins à défaut? Mais définitivement non si l'on persiste à prétendre que des défauts, comme par exemple les gouts phénolés, sont des goûts de terroir."

(Adressez vos questions à info@vitabella.fr)

The Monday Edition of VitaBella Wine Daily Gossip is out…Every day, more international news from Wine magazine, Wine website and Wine review!

Vitabella — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 16:07:32 +0000

Edition February 20, 2011

Every day, more international news about Wine ! Today Fruits, Flowers, Leaves and Roots mourn Maria Thun, « Grandmother of Biodynamics » , Michel Chapoutier Discusses What Ethical Principles a « Natural » Winemaker Should Respect. , Heitz Martha's Vineyard: A Grand Cru wine in Napa Valley and much more.

Vitabella Wine Daily Gossip
“Everyday let's know more about Wine, Luxury, Lifestyle and Marketing !”

Wine website, Wine magazine...What’s Hot Today on Wine Blogs?
“Discover the latest news on Wine Blogs”

葡萄酒，香槟，维塔贝拉新闻

What Wine to share with Friends Today ?
“Discover a Wine Experience Everyday”

Michel Chapoutier Shares His Thoughts On What is a « Natural » Wine and Discusses What Ethical Principles a « Natural » Winemaker Should Respect.

Vitabella — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 14:37:46 +0000

A few weeks ago, in a recent interview from the UK Decanter Magazine (read here "Chapoutier pours scorn on natural winemakers"), Michel Chapoutier was highly critical of people who defend so-called “natural” wines. He has added to the natural wine debate by denouncing natural winemakers as out-of-touch hippies making defective wines. Today Michel Chapoutier shares his thoughts on what is a "natural" wine and discusses what ethical principles a "natural" winemaker should respect.

Michel Chapoutier, you said in Decanter Magazine that making natural wine is like making vinegar. Is not it a bit tough?

Michel Chapoutier: "It's not an attack on the concerned wine, it is more an attack on the word "natural" itself. The principle of natural fermentation - sugar of the fruit converted into alcohol by yeasts - is the alcoholic fermentation. Then, by the action of bacteria, this alcohol is transformed into acid: it is the acetic fermentation. The purpose of fermentation is a natural principle of decomposition from the plant stage to mineral stage. Natural fermentation gives vinegar, in fact a bad one for vinegar lovers. That why, if you want to talk about wine without sulphur dioxide added, you must talk about wine without sulphur dioxide added and not about "natural" wine. To be more precise a "natural" wine does not exist and I rise up on that particular point."

So, if we call them wines without sulphur dioxide instead of "natural" wines, are there any good wines without sulphur dioxide?

Michel Chapoutier: "Of course sulphur dioxide is necessary if you want to stop the natural principle of fermentation halfway, at the alcohol stage. In fact, between the two periods of alcoholic fermentation and acetic fermentation, you can consider to try to make a wine without the addition of sulphur dioxide. Some winemakers manage to do it very well. But as this action is extremely unstable, people who engage in this project are systematically confronted with a high failure rate and easily 50 % of products may have defects."

So what can we do with these defective wines?

Michel Chapoutier: "That is the problem. Making wine without sulphur dioxide is an interesting thing. I tasted a very good Morgon from Lapierre last week. But how will the winemaker be able to finance this amount of wine with defects? Some people sell them but that is a disrespect toward the consumer and I rise up on that point. Some even sell these defective wines by claiming it is a taste of terroir. This is not only consumer disrespect but also an AOC wine disrespect if it concerns an AOC wine. And in that situation, I rise up and I am shocked. Making a wine without sulphur dioxide is one thing. But the winemaker has to learn to rules of the game which first include the respect for the consumer and the respect of an AOC wine. Moreover the winemaker must also assume financially the failures and destroy wines with defects. "

Can we say it's the same problem with Biodynamics?

Michel Chapoutier: "No, not at all. Biodynamic agriculture and organic farming are based primarily on an environmental friendly agriculture and agronomy. Recently, to provide consistent information to consumers, we have also established specifications in the winemaking process for both organic and biodynamic approaches. However, for these two approaches which are both respectful to Nature and scientifically rational, we have, of course, kept the use of sulphur dioxide. We have limited its use but these two approaches did not want to take the risk to stick to the extreme dogmatism of zero sulphur dioxide."

So How do you make organic, biodynamic and the so-called “natural” wines live together?

Michel Chapoutier: "It is a philosophical and sociological problem. We should recognize that agriculture has made tremendous progress. Even chemistry, with its approach to sustainable farming, has integrated a reasoned and equitable approach. Organic is developping progressively. Increasingly, people who practice a sustainable agriculture go for organic methods and then some even go further by switching to biodynamics. It is important to make these farming methods universal for the sustainability of our planet. This means that ecology should be considered as a universal science. Ecology should not be taken into hostage by political parties which would withdraw this universal approach. This means that, like in any other area, no extremism is good for the planet. I am scared by this tendency in organic farming because, behind this utopian desire, there is also the risk of demotivating people and damaging the phenomenal work done through organic and biodynamic approaches. YES for organic farming, YES for biodynamic agriculture, but I do not live in accordance with the principles of "natural" wines that would include all these risks, in fact it is scaring me. OK if there is an ethics of not marketing the defective wines. But definitely NO if they persist in claiming that defects, such as phenolic tastes, are a taste of terroir."

(You can reach the writer at info@vitabella.fr)

Fruits, Flowers, Leaves and Roots mourn Maria Thun, « Grandmother of Biodynamics »

Vitabella — Sun, 19 Feb 2012 12:59:55 +0000

Editorial by Guillaume Jourdan

Chateau de Beaucastel, Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Chapoutier...Famous biodynamic wine estates have all learnt from her books and annual sowing and planting calendars. Maria Thun, "grandmother of biodynamics", died at nearly 90 years of age. She had recently published "When Wine Tastes Best: 2012"

Born near Malburg, Germany, Maria devoted her life to researching and applying the anthroposophic philosophy of Rudolf Steiner. In 1952, Maria Thun noticed some shape differences between radishes that were sown over a 10-day period in a similarly prepared soil. Some plots produced larger roots than others. Other plots produced larger leaves. A third group produced flowers more readily than the others and the fourth group went more quickly to seed. She was intrigued by these variations and began doing various experiments to try to figure out the causes. She came up with the idea that the position of the Moon in the zodiac was important and that the different sowings of radishes could be divided into four different types : root, leaf, flower, and fruit/seed. Her findings have been published for 50 years, annually, in the Original Culture Calendar Biodynamic.

Maria Thun was an authority on biodynamics. Maria's experiments carried out in Germany in the 1950s tried to establish a connection between the growth of plants and the movements above us. Results were published in an annual sowing and planting calendar published in 18 languages. This useful guide shows the optimum days for sowing, pruning, and harvesting various plant-crops. Maria Thun's experiments with plants have consistently shown the effect of the constellations. For example, she discovered that the periods when the orbital planes of the Moon, Mercury and Venus were crossing the orbital path of the Sun - known as nodes - were unfavorable for sowing seeds. Maria has also added the consideration of the ascending and descending arc of the Moon in her approach. Her experience has shown that soils which have been treated for years with the biodynamic preparations enjoy more benefits from cosmic influences.

Maria Thun's most recent publication was "When Wine Tastes Best: 2012", a guide that tells which days are optimum wine-drinking days and which days to avoid if you want to get the most out of your glass. To know more about this approach, I recommend to read this article "Can lunar cycles affect the taste of wine?" from BBC News.

(You can reach the writer at info@vitabella.fr)

The Sunday Edition of VitaBella Wine Daily Gossip is out…Every day, more international news from Wine magazine, Wine website and Wine review!

Vitabella — Sun, 19 Feb 2012 09:37:28 +0000

Edition February 19, 2011

Every day, more international news about Wine ! Today Why the wines of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti are so special ? , Moët-Hennessy to produce red wine in China , Why the wines of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti are so special ? and much more.

Vitabella Wine Daily Gossip
“Everyday let's know more about Wine, Luxury, Lifestyle and Marketing !”

Wine website, Wine magazine...What’s Hot Today on Wine Blogs?
“Discover the latest news on Wine Blogs”

葡萄酒，香槟，维塔贝拉新闻

What Wine to share with Friends Today ?
“Discover a Wine Experience Everyday”

The Thursday Edition of VitaBella Wine Daily Gossip is out…Every day, more international news from Wine magazine, Wine website and Wine review!

Vitabella — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 09:49:09 +0000

Edition February 16, 2011

Every day, more international news about Wine ! Today Armani Wine Bar Opens in Tokyo, Moët-Hennessy to produce red wine in China , Marius by Michel Chapoutier : A New Wine in Town and much more.

Vitabella Wine Daily Gossip
“Everyday let's know more about Wine, Luxury, Lifestyle and Marketing !”

Wine website, Wine magazine...What’s Hot Today on Wine Blogs?
“Discover the latest news on Wine Blogs”

葡萄酒，香槟，维塔贝拉新闻

What Wine to share with Friends Today ?
“Discover a Wine Experience Everyday”

Should Wine Investment Funds buy Yquem and Sauternes ?

Vitabella — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 04:15:32 +0000

Editorial by Guillaume Jourdan

Fine wine fund managers, private collectors...I received a great amount of e-mails concerning my editorial "Fine Wine Investment Funds: What should they learn from the past to make Great Returns over the Next 10 Years?". In fact, I understood there was a huge reflexion nowadays on that topic and directions taken by decision makers were not all the same. Of course, results will differ over the next few years (when I write results, I mean return on investment here) but there were some very convincing ideas including a suggestion recently made by a wine fund management specialist: buy the exclusive and underpriced Chateau d'Yquem.

Chateau d'Yquem, the next Lafite? Lunzer Wine Investments predicts rapid rise in value of investments in Chateau d'Yquem. In fact, Lunzer analyzed the impact expected on the wine investment market place less than six months since the announcement that the sweet wines of Bordeaux can be imported into China officially. This fine wine fund management specialist predicts the change means Chateau d'Yquem will become the next big winner for the wine investment market. Wine expert Peter Lunzer, who invented the concept of the Wine Price Ratio, is tipping it could even outperform the current favourite wine in China - Chateau Lafite.

"Chateau d'Yquem is probably the best known of the sweet Bordeaux wines which have not been allowed to be officially imported into China due to their large amounts of natural, residual sugar when compared to other wines which exceeded the limit set by the Chinese authorities. However, now these rules have been relaxed, we believe that demand for these sweet Bordeaux wines will skyrocket. From our experience, Chinese wine buyers have a massive appetite to acquire top quality brands so given Chateau d'Yquem's heritage, and the fact that it has a very limited production with an average of only 60,000 bottles produced each year, we believe it can only get more expensive," said Peter Lunzer, Chief Executive and Chief Investment Officer of Lunzer Wine Investments. Lunzer continued: "I expect the price of the good vintages - including 1990, 1996, 1997, 2001 and 2007- to double over the next few years and that this wine could challenge the high prices of other fine wines such as Chateau Lafite."

Interestingly, the 2004 remains un-scored by renowned wine critic Robert Parker and so, despite its exceptional quality, languishes below the radar. With such an interesting potential for the future, they have been including a greater than normal proportion of Chateau d'Yquem in the portfolios they have acquired for recent investors.

In May 2010, the "Liquid Gold Collection" from Chateau d'Yquem became one of the most expensive lots of wine ever sold in Asia during a Christie's auction in Hong Kong. This collection of 128 bottles and 40 magnums was the largest collection of Chateau d'Yquem ever to come to auction. In fact, if what Lunzer says proves to be right, this phenomenom will have a larger impact on the Sauternes market as a whole. Considering depreciated prices for current vintages of top Sauternes wines as well as for old vintages currently sold at auctions, there could be a strong leverage effect that could boost prices and make this market alive again, after decades of "quiet evolution". In Finance, we call it contrarian and in history some contrarians made huge gains by investing, before others, in underrated company shares. Right time to bring a contrarian strategy into your wine portfolio holdings to boost overall performance?

(You can reach the writer at info@vitabella.fr)

Get back to the legend of St. Valentine and share a Glass of Marius wine on Valentine’s day!

Vitabella — Mon, 13 Feb 2012 19:37:30 +0000

Did you know that St Marius was the best friend of St. Valentine? The legend says that Valentine and Marius were performing marriages in secret while Emperor Claudius II cancelled them in Rome. So let’s celebrate Valentine’s Day with a glass of Marius wine and with the book "Any News of Marius Chapoutier ?" released today.

Last year, Maison M. Chapoutier made a pleasant surprise by launching MARIUS by Michel Chapoutier. This year, to celebrate the white / rosé and red versions, a book "Any News of Marius Chapoutier? " tells some stories of Marius Chapoutier during his life. "A good wine is a wine you want to taste again" always said Marius. This book pays a tribute to this great man who was the great-great-grandfather of Michel Chapoutier, founder and talented developer of this wine estate. The english version of the book is released on Valentine’s Day.

But why on St Valentine's Day ? The Legend of St. Valentine and his good Friend St. Marius may help to understand. This legend began in Rome, when the Emperor, Claudius II, was involved in many bloody and unpopular campaigns. “Claudius the Cruel” as he was called, was having a difficult time getting soldiers to join his military leagues. He believed that the reason was that Roman men did not want to leave their loves or families. So, he cancelled all marriages and engagements in Rome! The good Saint Valentine, who was a priest in Rome, in the year 269 A.D., together with his friend Saint Marius, defied Claudius and continued to perform marriages for young lovers in secret. When Valentine's actions were discovered, he was sentenced to be beaten to death with clubs and to have his head cut off. But while in prison, it is believed that Valentine fell in love with a young girl, who may have been his jailor's daughter, who visited him during his confinement. Before his death on the 14th day of February, it is alleged that he wrote her a letter, which he signed " From your Valentine" In 496 A.D., Pope Gelasius set aside February 14 to honor St. Valentine.

Offering a nice gift and sharing a glass of wine at Valentine's Day has become more and more popular all over the world. Finding a wine that reminds lovers of this legend makes it even more pleasant, isn't it ?

Drink Responsibly. (You can reach the writer at info@vitabella.fr)

The Sunday Edition of VitaBella Wine Daily Gossip is out…Every day, more international news from Wine magazine, Wine website and Wine review!

Vitabella — Sun, 12 Feb 2012 16:48:44 +0000

Edition February 12, 2011

Every day, more international news about Wine ! Today “A terroir wine is a wine for the mouth and not for the nose,” Chapoutier says. , Poor Organisation of 2012 Salon des Vins de Loire and Loire Stars , Chateau Gruaud Larose : A video on the 2nd Growth of St Julien and much more.

Vitabella Wine Daily Gossip
“Everyday let's know more about Wine, Luxury, Lifestyle and Marketing !”

Wine website, Wine magazine...What’s Hot Today on Wine Blogs?
“Discover the latest news on Wine Blogs”

葡萄酒，香槟，维塔贝拉新闻

What Wine to share with Friends Today ?
“Discover a Wine Experience Everyday”